Friday, November 9, 2012

THOMAS JEFFERSON'S CREME BRULEE : HOW A FOUNDING FATHER AND HIS SLAVE JAMES HEMINGS INTRODUCED FRENCH CUISINE TO AMERICA
by Thomas J. Craughwell

Thomas Jefferson was, in today's parlance, a true foodie. He loved fine cuisine and fresh produce. Jefferson collected tons of recipes and over 150 of them are still in existence. At Monticello, he had fruit,vegetable and herb gardens that fed his family. He was constantly experimenting with different kinds of plants from Europe and Mexico. Jefferson always dreamt of making wine but the European vines died in the Virginia soil.
In 1784, Jefferson was invited to become a commerce commissioner in France. How perfect! At this time, France was changing its methods of cooking to sauces and stocks which brings out the flavor of food and was heartily embraced by King Louis XIV. For Jefferson, it was an ideal assignment. He would be away for five years. Jefferson took one of his slaves, nineteen-year-old James Hemings (brother to Sally) to master the art of French cooking. James would apprentice under French chefs and when they returned from Paris, Jefferson would set him free.
This book is a real gem. Just reading about the crops grown on plantations, Jefferson's fastidiousness of what was planted, the history of food both in the United States and in France is fascinating. There's also plenty of other kinds of history: slavery, the French Revolution, George Washington's government, the relationship between Jefferson, Madison, and Hamilton, how women managed the households, etc.
It's a rather slim tome at 166 pages but then there's an Appendix with sections on how Jefferson learned about wine and how to cultivate it; what his principal diet consisted of; African cuisine that was served at Monticello. Following this part are recipes written by Hemings and Jefferson. Of course, they are written in the original manuscripts (photocopied for this book) and you really cannot discern the text. No matter. It's enough to know what the two men brought back with them to America: Champagne, macaroni and cheese, french fries, and of course, creme brulee.
A fun and informative read.
Recommended.

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